Monday, December 13, 2010

surfing 101.

So this morning i got up and went to get my car windshield fixed. luckily on this island most mechanics and auto workers come to the car instead of having to drive to the mechanics. makes sense right?
my car has been parked at the mechanics house. so i drove over to his place and met the glass guy.
the mechanic's house was outside of town, away from the ocean towards the mountains.
first thing i see is a wonderful array of hibiscus flowers. red ones, pink ones, and yellow ones. The glass house told me that the state flower is in fact a yellow hibiscus flower, not a red one.
he also had a garden full of fresh lettuce along with pineapples, and tangelos(half oranges, half tangerines).
i took pictures with my phone and picked tangelos.
after my car got it's new windshield i ventured to the beach.
i got lessons from a friend on surfing.
let me tell you two things if you have never surfed before.
the waves look small from a distance. but when you are in the water they aren't small at all. the ocean is so powerful.
and most people i've talked to have recommended learning on a long board. i did not use a long board. i could not stay on the board. i was bobbing sideways and flipping forward and backwards. when the water was calm. when the waves came i couldn't even hold onto my board, regardless of even thinking about standing up. i used muscles that i didn't know existed. my whole body worked. ever part, my back, abs, legs, arms and neck.
after like only a half hour!
haha. i climbed out of the water and staggard to the beach, laying my board down and sunbathing. that was wonderful.
i am SO out of shape.
then after some time i went down to the water laying in the wave laps and i looked around. and then it hit me.
I am in Kauai Hawaii, AND I LIVE HERE!
holyshit. i'm soo freaking excited!
I'm so so so so happy here! i love it. i know it's just going to get better!
so yea then i started body surfing, and that was more on my level for the first time i've ever been in the middle of the pacific ocean. the ocean is rough here. i like it!
after surfing I came back and helped tutor the kids. I love working with kids. :-)
peace and love brah.

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